So, if you haven’t caught on already – I’ve picked up kayaking as my new extreme sport. I didn’t so much pick it up. It was really thrust upon me, by Anthony, who has been maniacally obsessed with the sport for just over four weeks. Is this really a sport? Or was it invented purely to scare the wits out of people like me? Well, I think the answer is that it’s a little of both. Half skill sport (or balance sport – as Pat would describe it) and half complete, utter insanity. Never the less, about three weeks ago we signed up for a demo program that allows us to rent out an unlimited amount of kayaks from the kayak shop for up to 90 days. This seemingly limitless access to kayaks opens up a whole new world of pain that one would never would have expected from such small, benign looking crafts. I’ll spare you the background story a bit and move on to the juicy stuff. Let’s fast forward to August 7th, 2004, a Saturday.
Cynthia, who is Pat’s fiancé, was holding bridal shower/lingerie party over at the house. Naturally, boys are not allowed to this event. Pat and I were effectively booted out of the house for the entire afternoon. This was perfectly ok with us, because we knew exactly what we would do. Anthony, Pat and I decided this was a good time to run out and get some first hand experience kayaking down real rapids. You see, up until this point, most of our experience was in the back yard pool – learning how to Eskimo roll. Rolling a kayak is really much harder than it appears. Most people can’t figure it out in their first lesson. I’m one of those people. Anthony is not – he got it right away. Pat picked it up pretty quickly. He was rolling the boat in only two pool sessions. I’m a bit more retarded when it comes to water sports. Especially upside-down, frantic, scary, drowning water sports. I tend to panic when I’m upside down and locked inside a boat. It’s scary folks. The motivation to roll is there, but I just can’t seem to pull it off. Despite all that, I wasn’t daunted. I was ready to try my hand at some class II rapids. So we went and spent an awesome (and mildly terrifying) afternoon paddling from Coloma to Lotus Camp. The rapids in this section of the river are intimidating, but totally manageable for the first time kayaker. It was a real confidence builder and we were ready for more.
After we returned home, we promptly got in the pool to practice rolling the boats again. And this time, I got it. I figured it out. I was a rolling fool. It was triumphant. I was on top of the world. Kayaking was that much less scary now and I was going to own this sport. At least that was the plan…
August 8th, 2004 – A Sunday.
Anthony was determined not to let the kayaking momentum die. We had these boats for the entire weekend and were going to use them. After we’d finished an early morning game of soccer, we changed and loaded up the truck with our kayaks. This time, it was Anthony, Aquiles and myself. Aquiles had signed up for the demo program as well and had actually rented out the boat for Pat the previous day. He wasn’t able to join us on Saturday due to some family obligations – but he was fired up and ready to go on Sunday. Aquiles is the kind of person that you can’t quite tell if he’s really aggressive or just really foolish. He’s always ready to try to push the limits – safety be damned. We had it all worked out, we were going to run a 5 mile section of the American river near Foresthill. According to “the book”, Class II+ rapids were all that was in store for us today. Just a bit more challenging than the class II rapids that we’d seen the previous day. Nothing to be too concerned with. Winding our way down unimproved roads for what seemed like hours, we finally arrived at the pull out point. This is when we first began to realize that this just wasn’t going to be our day. The water appeared to be extremely low. From high above, we could see that there were sections of the rapid that were unrunnable. Still optimistic, we proceeded to the put-in spot in the hopes that we would still be able to run this section of the river. We did not want to go home without some kind of extreme kayak action, or at least a semi-extreme kayak experience. We made our way back up the windy dirt road and back down another windy dirt road to find ourselves at the put in point. Parking near an extremely rickety looking bridge, we again scouted out the river. And again, we were disappointed. The water was just too low. There were clearly several spots that would be less than ideal take a kayak through. We made our first wise decision of the day (probably our last) and chose not to run this river. Looking back at “the book”, Anthony was amazed to find that this particular part of the river is best in the spring season. Since August is well beyond the spring season, we had missed our window for fun, easy rapids.
Yet again undaunted, we came up with a back-up plan. Once again using “the book” we found a run a little bit more familiar, yet more challenging. Why not step it up to class III rapids? We were ready for it. I mean, I’d learned to roll just the day before – how bad could it really be? And so it was decided. We would start at Chili-Bar and paddle 5.8 miles to Coloma and the highway 49 bridge. We all knew this was going to be a bit above our class, but we were all too proud to admit it. This run is above the run we had done just the previous day. It actually overlaps a bit at the end, which was a great idea – since we were already familiar with the area.
After spending more than half the day scouting the previous rapids, we finally arrived at our back-up run. It was almost 3PM and we were all pretty tired from driving around all day. We had dropped off Aquiles truck in Coloma and proceeded to Chili Bar in my truck. Those thoughts of fatigue quickly turned to a tiny bit of fear when we arrived at the little dirt parking lot at Chili Bar. Right there in front of us were the meanest set of rapids we had seen since we started this whole kayak kick. They were easily class III (possibly bigger), and just the sound of the water roaring made my heart sink right into my stomach. I suddenly realized just how scary this sport really is. I stood there and stared at it for a moment and collected my thoughts. I marched back to the truck and found Anthony.
“Did you see that rapid there?” I asked, nervously.
“Yeah, but we’re not going to start there – we’ll start downstream and skip that one” said Anthony reassuringly.
Looking at the rapid, I suddenly had the frightening thought that this may not be the only big water on this section of river. It just couldn’t be any worse than that. Right? “The book” never said anything about this. It couldn’t be wrong.
We unloaded the boats and all our gear. Anthony, Aquiles and I donned our helmets, life vests and spray jackets. We were ready to leave in record time. I quickly situated myself inside my boat and sealed up the skirt around the lip at the top. My boat, the diesel, is more of a river boat compared to the less stable “play” boats that Anthony and Aquiles had rented. Where my boat was engineered to be stable and negotiate rapids smoothly, their boats are meant for spinning, cart-wheeling and surfing rapids.
Right away we got off to a bad start. As we shoved off, it was clear that Aquiles was having some difficulty controlling his boat. After all, we were all just learning how to paddle. None of us really knew the proper technique. The look of concentration on Aquiles face, as he leaned forward and frantically tried to steer his boat in a relatively straight line, was classic. I glided forward with ease. It wasn’t long before we could hear the roar of an approaching rapid. We braced ourselves for the worst. It was on us before we knew it. We were charging headlong into rapids that we had not previously scouted or even read about in a book. We were completely blind to what was in store for us.
Aquiles flipped his boat immediately. Anthony frantically tried to follow along behind him to catch his boat and his paddle if needed. Unfortunately, in the process of trying to help Aquiles, he himself was tossed upside down by the violent waters. I watched from about 100 yards behind as Anthony’s boat bobbed in the water ahead – nose down. I was determined to stay in my boat – despite the churning water all around me. Alas, I was at the mercy of the water and eventually the river flipped my boat over. It was at this point, that I completely panicked. I didn’t even try to roll out of it. Once again, you’re upside down, with water rushing all around you. It’s deathly cold and you don’t have much air. The first thing you can think to do is to get out of the boat as fast as possible. What you don’t realize is that now, you’re in the rapid. You’ve got to do a few things at this point. You’ve got to grab your boat, your oar and get your legs up to your chest. At this point, you’re just trying not to get hurt. Rocks just below the surface pound your legs and back. You struggle for air, taking deep breaths before the water sucks you beneath the surface and spits you back out again. As we later learned, this was the infamous Meatgrinder rapid. It’s nearly a quarter mile of punishing class III rapids. Aquiles rode the whole thing outside of his boat. He later confessed that this was the closest he had ever come to drowning in his entire life.
We regrouped at the shore. Everyone had to catch their breath after that run, but we agreed that we should do a better job of scouting rapids before running them. It was then, when Aquiles sheepishly looked at us and admitted that he had forgotten the keys to his truck. The truck that we had left in Coloma – our only way back. Collectively, we agreed that we would figure it out when we got to Coloma. Surely we could hitch a ride, or perhaps call someone we knew. Our primary objective was to get down the river.
And we set out yet again. It wasn’t long before we approached the next set of rapids. This time, we took it a little slower. Anthony went first to try to find a good line through the rapid. Once again, Aquiles ejected from his boat and rode through the second set of rapids in just his life jacket. Anthony and I managed to pull this one out and meet up at the shore on the other side. Aquiles was looking rather dejected at this point. He was exhausted from swimming two intense rapids and was running low on confidence. Despite the way I may have looked (and the fact that I made it through this set of rapids without flipping), I was terrified. This was big water – and it was owning us.
After a short rest at the shore, we were paddling again. This time, we were going to scout the rapids before we tried to run them blind. Or at least that was the idea. As we approached the next set of rapids, we couldn’t really make out what was in store for us. The river twists around a bend and makes it almost impossible to see the danger that lies ahead. So once again, Anthony charges in head first. I blindly follow behind. And Aquiles, well, he makes a smart choice and pulls off to the side of the river. The river makes a violent turn to the left and then back around to the right. It clearly has the biggest rapids we’ve seen yet, with waves so high that I thought I would surely be swallowed up. It attempts to slam you into solid wall of rock before changing direction and sending you off balance into more huge waves. Anthony bails out. I begin to panic. If I fall out of this boat, I will surely drown. This is the single dumbest thing I’ve ever done in my life. I try to steady myself. Sitting in a kayak is like sitting on a balancing beam with a paddle. The boats aren’t terribly stable and one false move means that you’re flipping over upside down. Now imagine, you’re sitting on that balancing beam while someone violently shakes it. Yeah, that’s what it’s like. It’s dumb luck if you can stay on top of the water. Somehow, I made it through, and backed my boat into a cove to wait for Aquiles. He would surely have bailed out by now. I was terrified before, and now I was doubly terrified.
Anthony appeared on the rock above me. He said something about “crunching” his boat and hitting his face. Then he set out to find Aquiles, hiking back up the canyon. Left alone, I decided to do a bit of roll practice. So I quickly rolled the boat a couple of times, just to inspire a little confidence. The cold water woke me up a bit and I decided to get out of the boat and check out the shore.
I was actually glad to get a bit of rest. It had been non-stop adrenaline up to this point, and there was no sign of that changing any time soon. We were barely 2 miles into our nearly 6 mile journey and we had nearly died 3 times already. It was shaping up to be a rough afternoon. Or a rough evening. The sun was starting dip down lower in the sky and became imperative that we get back in the river as soon as possible. You wouldn’t want to be stuck several miles outside of civilization with a 30+lb kayak to carry on your back. This wasn’t the most hospitable land.
I climbed up on top of a rock that was right on the bend in the river to sit and wait for Anthony and Aquiles to return. It was at that point that I noticed that I was sharing this small ledge with a plastic gurney. It was obviously placed here as a warning to rafters and kayakers alike. Well, maybe more as a precaution. But probably a little of both. It wasn’t very settling, that’s for sure.
After about 10 minutes, Anthony finally returned alone.
“Where’s Aquiles” I asked.
“He’s hiking back – we’ll meet him at the truck later” Anthony replied.
I was shocked. We were 2 miles into these rapids already. Aquiles was going to hike his boat back out? All kinds of questions came to me, but I realized it would be pointless to ask. We needed to get moving before the sun set and we were trapped on the river. We still had to figure out what to do once we reached Coloma.
From this point on, Anthony and I made a pact. We were going to try to take the most easily runnable lines down the river, and we were going to do it as fast as possible. No messing around. And with that agreement, we set back out to finish this river up.
Over the next three miles we hit a rapid succession of whitewater. Four sections in a row. Both Anthony and I popped out of our boats at least once during these rapids. Anthony, looking more comfortable than ever was actually able to roll out of some of the larger rapids. I was still not comfortable flipping my boat back over in whitewater – instead opting to pull the skirt as soon as I was upside down. Yet all in all, we did fantastically well considering we were complete novices running rapids that were clearly outside of our skill level. We hit two huge four foot holes in this section of the river and managed to stay on top of our boats. It was the most terrifying, yet most exhilarating experience of my life. After each of the short rapids, I’d give a little whoop – to let nature know that I had made it out alive.
After those last rapids, was a long stretch of river with calm, small class II rapids that really seemed like child’s play after what we had just been through. It was at this point that I was able to take stock and realize just how silly this whole adventure really was. How stupid we really were. How we had done everything wrong from the very beginning. And how incredibly lucky we were that we weren’t twisted, mangled and broken – trapped underneath the frigid water.
It was about this time that we began to meander back into civilization. Houses began appearing on the waters edge. Campsites starting appearing. And up ahead in the river I could clearly make out people standing on a rock on the left hand side of the river. At last, we had made it back to Coloma – or at least close enough. I was ecstatic. I was literally out of adrenaline. You could have shown me another class IV rapid at this point and my body wouldn’t even have flinched. There just wasn’t any energy left in my muscles. I was exhausted.
And then we saw it. One last rapid on the left hand side of the river… near where those people were standing. But luckily, on the right hand side of the river it was smooth water. Anthony and I had our pact that we had made earlier. We were going to take the easiest line and get out as fast as possible. Sure enough, Anthony made his way to the calm water on the right hand side of the river. I was happy we wouldn’t have to brave another set of rapids. And they didn’t look small either.
Then – Anthony’s boat suddenly disappeared… over the lip of a small waterfall. Once I realized what was actually going on, those rapids to the left didn’t look so bad. I paddled frantically to get back to the the left hand side of the river, but it was already too late. I found myself running through a chute at the top of the waterfall, sideways. Let me tell you, sideways is not the way you want to approach rushing water. As soon as I hit the edge of the water, it violently flipped my boat upside down. I was falling over the edge, underwater, upside down. I decided that this must be the absolute worst way to attack the rapids. I could be making instructional videos on how NOT to kayak. Once again, I panicked. There was not chance I was going to roll the boat at this point. I reached down and popped the skirt. This time the rapids held me under for a while. When I finally did come up for a breath – it was brief. The water sucked me back down and ripped my water sock right off. I came up again and struck my right shin against a rock and was sucked under water for a third time. When I surfaced I had cleared the rapids and the people on the rock behind me were yelling. At first I thought they were telling me to get out of the water, but then quickly realized that they were trying to direct me to my boat. Unfortunately, there was no way I was going to swim to my boat. However Anthony had somehow survived his drop over the waterfall and was already chasing it down.
I swam to a rock that was jutting out into the river. Swimming at this point is not really swimming in the classic sense. It’s more of a frantic flail. My arms and legs had been completely sapped of all energy and I wasn’t a very effective swimmer – especially in the river’s current. When I finally did make it to the rock, I hauled myself out of the water onto the slippery surface. Walking around on the rock with only one shoe towards the shore, which was covered in brambles didn’t really appeal to me at this point. I decided that I was just going to get back in and float with the current down the river until I reached Anthony. And he was a long way down the river.
As I floated down the river, I passed several campsites with children asking me where my boat was and I had to explain that I had lost it back at that waterfall. It was really quite embarrassing – but I deserved it. Eventually I heard Anthony yelling my name from the shore. So I floated a little bit more until I could see him and I climbed out of the water. There I was standing there soaking wet, with all of my gear including a paddle, except one shoe. We made our way up to a small general store at the camp ground. I began to bleed from the gash in my shin. We quickly shared stories of our experience going over the waterfall. When we arrived at the store, we found that it had already closed. They did, however, have a pay phone outside the door. We didn’t have any money and we’d have to make a collect call.
It’s funny how much we rely on our technological gadgets in these times. Both of us were without our cell phones – and lets be honest – who memorizes phone numbers anymore? Our cell phones have done away with the necessity of phone number memorization. Cell phones have greatly simplified our lives – which is great. But in this situation, where we were stuck in Coloma with no money and no phone number to dial – we were out of luck. That’s about when a very nice lady opened the front door of the store and asked us if we needed any help. We explained our situation and how we didn’t remember any phone numbers and we needed to get back to Chili Bar. She gave us a bit of a blank look and then asked us again if we knew any phone numbers. Anthony suddenly had an epiphany and remembered a number. I was frankly, impressed – drawing a complete blank on any non-work related numbers that I could call. Anthony had somehow pulled one out of his hat. So the shop owner let Anthony inside to use the phone. While Anthony was using the phone she came back out with a paper towel that I could use to clean up my wound. The folks at Coloma Resort were so nice, that they were actually asking us if we needed anything to drink, etc. I’m definitely going back with a bottle of wine some day. They were incredibly helpful.
After about an hour, Anthony’s sister and brother-in-law (Connie and Will) arrived with their truck to save the day. We loaded up the kayaks and headed back up to Chili Bar. On the way we described the epoch journey in detail to Connie and Will and how we expected to see Aquiles back at the parking lot – or perhaps stranded on some fire road in the wilderness alone, carrying a boat. And when we finally arrived, we didn’t see Aquiles anywhere in sight. So we pulled into the parking lot alongside my truck.
I jumped out and started unloading our kayaks into the the bed of my truck. As I loaded the first kayak, I spotted Aquiles! He was ambling his way down the hill from the road above, shirtless with a paddle in one hand and a bottle of water in the other hand. He explained that he had hiked most of the way back, carrying his kayak on his back – but eventually gave up carrying the kayak and left it back on the trail. Grudgingly, Will and I went off to retrieve the kayak – which was probably about a quarter to a half mile away. Climbing over rocks and crossing through painfully spiky bushes we managed to haul the kayak back to the truck. Unfortunately, Wills flip flops broke and he had to hike a good portion of the trail barefooted.
It was finally over. We were re-united and emerged with only minor cuts and bruises on our bodies. It was a full day of near-death experiences that taught me not only to respect to the river but also countless other valuable lessons. Never have I been more terrified of drowning in my entire life. And still I wouldn’t trade this experience for anything.
Ben.